We'll help you decide which suits are right for your body, your age, and your personal style.
Suit Jacket Style
- Double-breasted: Double-breasted suits will always be stylish, and they can look very distinguished. The only people who should avoid double-breasted suits are young men, who will be overpowered by the width, and heavyset men, who will look too wide. For everyone else, the classic six-button double-breasted suit is a sure thing. Be sure to wear your double-breasted suit with all of the buttons closed.
- Single-breasted: This look can be worn by any man. If you opt for a single-breasted suit, you'll need to decide how many buttons you want.
Buttons on single-breasted suits
- One button: Single-button suits are not very common and can make you look like a member of the Rat Pack. If you are going for a retro look, then a one-button suit will look very cool. If you only plan to have a few suits in your wardrobe, this may not be the choice for you.
- Two Buttons: Double-buttoned suits are a classic and look good on nearly everyone. You can't go wrong with a two-button suit as long as you wear it with the top button buttoned only.
- Three Buttons: Three-button suits have become popular in the last few years and are now widely available. Wear this suit with either the middle button buttoned or the top two buttons buttoned.
- Four or more: Single-breasted suits with four or more buttons are also available, and this is a very fashion-forward look. If you feel like this describes you, go ahead and wear one of these suits, but be sure you have some more conservative business suits to wear as well.
Lapels
- Width: Lapel widths change with fashion, and currently, lapels that are three to four inches wide are in style, so this is what you will see available.
- Peaks or notches: Peaked lapels (which look like an upside-down "V" at the tops of the lapels) are more common on double-breasted suits, but you may see some on single-breasted suits. Notches (which have a cut-out "V" on the sides of the lapels) are common on single-breasted suits.
Fabrics
- Cotton: Cotton suits are excellent for warm climates. When wearing cotton business suits in hot weather, choose cotton suits in dark colors. Cotton suits in any color make great casual suits.
- Wool: Wool is the most common fabric for suits because of its beauty and durability. Wool is made in several weights so it can be worn anytime of year.
- Worsted wool: When wool fibers have been combed to remove the short fibers, it is called "worsted wool." This wool is soft and long-lasting.
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Super 100 (or 120, 160, etc.): These long worsted wool threads, measured in centimeters, give the suit a soft feeling. The longer the strand, the softer the suit will feel.
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Others: Polyester, rayon or a blend of the two are also used for suits. These suits are very affordable, but may not have the long life of a wool suit. You may also see wool blended with silk, which will give your suit a luxurious feel. A suit's lining may be made of polyester, acetate or some other man-made fiber; this is not unusual and these are still high-quality suits.
Vents
- Double vent: Double vents, also known as side vents, are the most functional because they allow you to sit and stand up with the least amount of restriction. This suit style is also very flattering.
- Single vent: The single center-back vent is a typical American suit style that allows for moderate movement.
- No vent: Classic Hollywood actors often wore suit jackets without vents because it looks good on film. However, unless you are very slim, it can be restrictive while sitting in a car or at a desk.
Suit Jacket Waist
- Suppressed waist: This European style fits closely around the waist. A suppressed waist is a very flattering look.
- American fit: The suit jacket falls straight from the underarm to the hem. This fit is better for larger men, whether because of muscles or weight.
Shoulders
- Pads: All suits have a bit of a shoulder padding to give them shape. The shoulder pads are something that a tailor can't change, so make sure you like the thickness and the shape of the pads.
- Slope: If your shoulders slope a lot, a thicker shoulder pad will help your shoulders look even. A slight slope in the finished look will look very fashionable. If you have broad shoulders, then avoid adding very much padding to them.
Suit Measurements and Tailoring
Measuring for the Suit Jacket
Suit sizes have a number with a letter or word, such as 40L or 40 Long. The number is your chest measurement, or your over-arm measurement minus 7 inches. If these two numbers are about the same, use your chest measurement as your suit size. However, if the measurement over your arms is larger than your chest, use your over-arm measurement (minus 7) as your size.
The suit jacket length is described as short, regular or long, but this may be designated with just the first letter: S, R or L. The letter or word given in the size refers to your overall height.
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Short: 5'5" to 5'7"
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Regular: 5'8" to 5'10"
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Long: 5'11" to 6'2"
These measurements are flexible, though, so be aware of your body proportions. Choose the suit jacket length that covers your rear end without going any farther. For example, if you're 5'10" but you have a long torso, then you may want to shop for a long.
The Pants
Suits have what is called a "drop," which is the difference between the number given in the size and your pant size. American suits typically have a 6-inch drop. For example, an American suit in size 38R would have pants that are size 32. European suits typically have a 7-inch drop. So, you will need to subtract 7 from the over arm measurement to see what the pants size is. Most pants can be let out one inch and taken in up to two inches, so your body doesn't need to have the exact measurements as the suit, but you'll want to choose one that is as close as possible.
Cuffs and breaks
Pants, especially suit pants, are usually sold in one length, so you can have a tailor hem them to the right length. When they do this, tailors put in a "break." The break refers to how the bottom edge of your pants hits the top of your shoes.
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Full break: pants are hemmed to reach down to the top of the shoes' heels, with the front of the hem "breaking" naturally over the shoes. This look is considered very fashionable.
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Half break: pants are hemmed to reach about halfway down the back of the shoes. This is a very common choice.
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No break: hems end right before shoes, and a bit of sock is showing. This tends to look a bit casual.
When you have your pants hemmed, you can decide if you want a cuff or not. In general, pleated-front pants can be worn with or without cuffs, while flat-front pants should not have cuffs. Cuffed pants are more flattering on taller men.
Complete the look
You'll need the right shoes to wear with your new suit, so be sure to check out our selection. Stylish oxfords and handsome loafers are just a few of the many choices you have. Remember that you should match your socks to your suit, but you can have a bit more fun with your shoes.
Adding a few extras to your suit will help you stand out, whether you are wearing business apparel or you are dressed for an evening out on the town. Find the men's accessories that will give you that extra style, like men's watches and cufflinks or even a pocket square.
Caring for your men's suits
Follow the label: If the label in your suit says "dry clean only," then you should only dry clean your suit, but you don't need to have it cleaned every time you wear it. Just have your suit dry cleaned when it is dirty, or about every six times you wear it.
Refresh your suit: If your suit is wrinkled after wearing it, but you don't want to have it cleaned yet, you only need to have it steamed. Your dry cleaner can do this for you, or you can use a steamer at home. Just don't use your iron on a suit.
Brush it off: A suit brush is a tool that looks a lot like a hair brush, but with softer bristles. After you take off your suit in the evening, brush the dust of the day off your suit before hanging it in your closet.
Common questions about men's suits
Q: What are the different types of suit pockets?
A: In general, you will see three different types of suit pockets. Choosing between them is a matter of personal style.
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Besom: a slit pocket where the fabric meets but doesn't overlap. These offer a smoother look.
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Flap: a traditional look where a flap of fabric hangs over the pocket opening.
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Combination: the flap can be tucked inside to give the look of a besom pocket.
Q: Should I wear a belt or suspenders?
A: The way your suit pants are constructed will determine what you use. Many suits don't have belt loops, so you won't want to wear a belt with them. Many suit pants will have side tables built in, and these can be used to adjust your pants and hold them up. If your pants have buttons for attaching suspenders, then those should be your choice.
If you are wearing suits, you'll need dress shirts and ties to wear with them. Keep the look classic with a white shirt and a striped silk tie, or show some style with a striped shirt and patterned tie. You can find the shirts and ties to create all of these looks to wear with your suits at Bill Paul Ltd.
Q: What's the best way to build a suit wardrobe?
A: Your first suits should be a gray or navy suit, whether wool or cotton, makes an excellent business suit. If you plan to have only one or two suits, choose wool suits in these colors.
Black wool suits are important to have on hand for evening events or serious occasions, such as weddings and funerals, so this is a good next choice to add to your suit wardrobe. Once you have your basic suit wardrobe, you can add pinstripe suits, suits with checks and fashion suits with four or more buttons.